
Rising temperatures are putting China’s famous hairy crabs at risk, as extreme heat and erratic weather disrupt farming around Yangcheng Lake, the country’s best-known crab-producing region.
This year’s prolonged heatwaves have slowed crab growth, lowered oxygen levels in lakes, and increased disease outbreaks killing large numbers of crabs during the vulnerable molting stage. “The heat came earlier and stayed longer,” one farmer told Reuters. “Even with extra cooling, we lost many crabs.”
Despite the challenges, the 2025 harvest is expected to reach about 10,350 metric tons, roughly in line with past years. But farmers fear future seasons could be worse if high temperatures persist.
The industry, already struggling with counterfeit “Yangcheng Lake” labels and shifting consumer demand, now faces mounting climate pressure. Some producers are installing aeration systems or adding ice to ponds, while scientists are exploring heat-resistant crab breeds.
Environmental rules have also pushed farms from open lakes to artificial ponds, a move some say affects the crabs’ flavor. Still, for now, the cherished autumn delicacy will remain on menus, though supplies may shrink and prices rise.